Being a tourist in cities can be difficult as it is easy to be overwhelmed by their noise and speed. Barcelona is no exception, but as with most cities there are spaces and areas that are quieter. Often sounds are a better reflection of the true life of different parts of a city. The following three areas are such places; they are "Beyond the Ramblas".

The Born is an area bounded by Via Laietana and the park containing the zoo, and this was was where I first became aware of rhythms, created I thought at first on bells. The clear metallic sound actually came from gas bottles being beaten, informing clients up above of the vendors. Mostly they seem to be Indians, and each has a different rhythm, some just bang the bottles, whilst others create intricate rhythms, reminiscent of the tabla. These narrow streets are home to young creatives, older Catalans, and immigrants, giving a wonderful colour and vibrancy to the shops and restaurants of this area. Some of my favourite shops are: Bubo the best cake shop in Barcelona? 8 Carrer des Les Caputxes. Casa Gispert is an old-fashioned grocery store in 23 Carrer Dels Sombrerers. Arlequi Mascares, a mask shop, 5 Carrer De La Princesa. Yahoo Gallery bags made fom the advertising banners of Barcelona, 8 Carrer dels Cotoners.

Discordant whistles, produced from a plastic pan pipe, probably bought from a penny store, tells the butchers and others that the knife sharpening service has arrived. On the back of the moped, powered by the 50cc engine, is the round carburundum stone; next to this is a large wooden box containing all the other accoutrements of the trade. This is Gracia, which lies above the Born, and above the Diagonal, an area of squares, some set around churches, recalling old villages with tree lined steets. There are too many small fashion shops to mention, but try chilling out in a bar on Placa de la Virreina, or Placa de Sol, and watch the world go by, before heading to lunch at La Llesca, 6 Carrer de Terol, a traditional barbecue restaurant. Lunch is €7.50, but don't drink the house wine, move up a grade to a whole €6 or so.

All over Barcelona at 17.30 there is a cacophony, as children leave their schools, to play in the park, on the squares, and eat donuts. In St Gervasi this is particularly noticeable, as it is home to families some, mostly rich, some poor, but all noisy. This noise in some way sums up Barcelona for me; it's in the open , it's gregarious, it's youthful and capricious. Some of my favourite shops in St Gervasi are (take subway 7 to El Putxet) Casa Pepe, 375 Balmes, a deli come wine bar, and a local institution. Acanto, a flower shop, 54 Carrer de St Gervasi de Cassoles. Almost next door at number 60 is Dona Petra, an artisan weaver and producer. Wonderful products! At 103 on the same street is restaurant Bonanova, authentic Catalan cuisine, served in lovely surroundings. Finally for chocolates and cake try Canal, 566 Carrer de Muntaner. After the cake you could walk to Sarria, and take in some of the most expensive real estate in Barcelona.

 

It's asparagus season in France and there are plentiful supplies of both green and white in the markets. We love asparagus with, well almost anything, and like birds before migration we shall eat a lot of it over the next few weeks as the season is short. Simply with good olive oil, balsamico and parmesan, classically with butter, and of course with eggs and prosciutto .

Breakfast, grilled with two fried eggs cooked in olive oil on top, bacon optional, then pour the hot oil over the tips. Welcome morning, all is well!

Lunch, just the tips cooked in an omelette served with a salad, oh look the sun is shining!

Dinner, flan de pointes d'asperges au pesto, something we had whilst overlooking the harbour in Marseilles, what a sight!

Asparagus is so versatile, we hope that you enjoy it as much as we shall.

Sorèze, a little village nestling at the foot of the Black Mountains is our starting point for exploring some of the old pilgrims' route. The interior of the village hasn't changed much in the past few hundred years; its architectural integrity is intact. The Abbaye Ecole, a grand edifice sits above the village; some of it is currently being totally restored, the rest has become an hotel which is reasonable in price, though a little monastic in feel. When in Sorèze we eat in the Brasserie St. Martin, a good value bistro that sometimes has jazz evenings.

The charming little market town of Revel is famous for its furniture production, and has lately been featured in the TV series featuring the chef John Burton Race. Our copper workshop, run by Monsieur Semenou, isn't far away, so we visit him regularly to plan new product lines together. His company has been producing traditional copper articles for a a few hundred years now, but he is happy to work with us to create unique new ranges of lighting, not only from copper, but also from zinc. 

After Revel the pilgrims' route runs through St. Felix de Lauragais where in the 12th century the cathars held a council. The ruins of their castle still remain in an unassailable hilltop position and have wonderful views of the Pyrenees. These majestic mountains must have looked insurmountable to the pilgrims; no wonder they carried on west. The Lauragais is the name for this entire region, its most famous product being cassoulet, a dish which is appreciated all over France and beyond. There are constant arguments about who makes the best cassoulet, Castelnaudary or Toulouse. Some of the nuances may well be lost on an outsider, but are of supreme importance to the locals. Is the addition of tomatoes permissible, does it really make such a difference? Does one use lamb instead of goose or duck, and or the traditional sausage from Toulouse? The following quote from The Matchmaker of Perigord, by Julia Stuart, sums this up for us. 

"Monsieur Moreau", she began, "forgive me but it is a matter of utmost importance, and a true Frenchman such as yourself will know the definitive answer. Should a cassoulet have tomatoes in it or not?" Monsieur Moreau was so startled by her sudden appearance and line of questioning that he could think of nothing but the truth: "The correct method of making cassoulet is always a source of contention. Personally I prefer it without tomatoes as my mother made it, but for God's sake don't tell the wife."

 

Heading toward Le Puy on a recent trip we found the snow getting heavier and heavier with snow-ploughs behind us and oncoming cars covered in thick snow. We figured that soon the road would be impassable. There was nothing for it, but to turn around and flee towards the slightly warmer climes of Montpelier a few hundred kilometres south.

The discovery of the Hotel du Parc in the centre of Montpelier, a town mostly ruined by recent construction, particularly the almost Disney town shopping centre (not what we seek out), lightened our spirits. It is our kind of place, family-run with care. The hotel is in an old eighteenth century house with a courtyard, and whilst the rooms are small, they are decorated individually it all costs a very reasonable 65 Euros. Breakfast also went beyond the expected, and tea was nicely served with the tea bag already in the teapot (and not as is common in France by the side of the pot with the water having gone off the boil a long time ago). We took this pleasant respite with gusto as the unexpected diversion, had added another day to our expedition to meet with potters in the Drome Provencal. More about that soon.

On our way South recently, we stopped at Troyes south of Paris. In spite of our regular extensive travel through France we had previously ignored it. What an oversight!  It's certainly a town that we shall visit again. The centre is a historic gem, a complete town of colombage, or timber framed buildings, from the 16th and 17th centuries, rebuilt after the fire of 1524. Stunningly intact, it gives a glimpse into the lives of the mercantile classes, as Troyes was a large trading centre at this time.

Troyes also has several churches dating from the 13th and 14th centuries, the most important being the cathedral, which has a wonderful stained glass window. During the 13th century the Knights Templars were based here, and local rumour has it that buried treasure from the crusades is hidden here; the Ark of the Covenant perhaps? In an alleyway by the side of the cathedral is the Museum of Modern Art which contains works by Picasso, Braque, and Modigliani, to name just a few of the hundreds of works.

La Maison de Rhodes, named after the Knights Templars whose home it was in the 13th and 14th centuries, is an hotel whose ambiance allows a full enjoyment of this historic town. It's a trifle on the expensive side for France, but the building has been sensitively and tastefully restored and our room exuded an understated elegance.  The restaurant we thought too expensive and so avoided; the usual Continental breakfast was also expensive, but altogether it was a very pleasant experience.

We highly recommend a visit to Troyes.

La Maison de Rhodes

18 rue Linard Gonthier

10000 Troyes

Tel.: ++33/(0)3 25 43 11 11

 www.maisonderhodes.com 

 

 

On route D117 from Perpignan to Quillan, just before St. Paul de Fenouilles at Maury (famous for its wine) you turn right to Château de Quéribus. This outpost of the cathars, sits on a 790 metre peak, and then rises imperiously for another 30 metres or so. Its form is so much part of the hill that it looks as though it has been carved, or maybe placed there by a giant hand. The 360 degree views are utterly magnificient, with both the Pyrenees and the Montagnes Noires visible, whilst Peyrepertuse the old border castle of the counts of Aragon who ruled this region until 1659 is almost within touching reach, seperated only by the valley of Cucugnan. This deserted land carries so many cries from our collective past, containing so much history and dramatic scenery, while remaining relatively unaffected by tourism.

Amongst its other attractions are:

The Gorges of Galamus (really not good for caravans or camper vans)

Tautavel, where the oldest skull in Europe has been found; 450,000 years old!

Latour-de France, and Belesta, both bastide villages.

This area is becoming rightly famous for its wine making. Try the following:

Clot de l'Oum ( Eric Monne) or Domaine de la Pertuisane (Mark Hoddy) or Domaine Pauderoux (Robert Pouderoux), to name a few.

Restaurants:

At Maury, Pascal Borrell. In Cucugnan, Auberge de Vigneron, and Auberge de Cucugnan.

What better way to spend a lazy Sunday afternoon, than to go to a "vide grenier". This emptying of the lofts is a French tradition, which almost every village has. The events are well publicised by bill posters and flyers left on cars on market day. They are an opportunity to divest oneself of all the years' accumulated clutter, or to add some more.

They are a haven also for brocanteurs selling the left-overs from house clearances, but you never know you just might find.............

Bordeaux is probably one of France's most bourgeois cities, having built its wealth on trading and wine. For many years its beautiful sandstone buildings had become neglected and grey and there was an air of stuffiness and snobbery about the place. All that has been thoroughly dusted down and transformed of late, a good example of how cites can be revived. Now there is a new tramway sytem, a cool river front and students using the many bicycle paths. Behind the recently restored Bourse is an area of streets and squares; a world away from the Hermes and Dior shops of the main street, l'Intendance. It's an altogether more interesting mix of small boutiques, cafes and bistros with terraces to sit and eat outside. The rythm here is one of late starts, so don't arrive before 11.00. Check out the following:

1)Au Denicheur Antique shop  This little treasure trove is a wonderful mix (see picture below)

2)Toscane 6 Rue Du Cancera  05 56 01 12 18. If you enjoy traditional Italian Degustazione menus you will just love this place,

3)La Fromentine Rue du Pas Saint Georges, a very individual creperie!

On our way west we stopped here, drawn by the oldest university in Spain. This rash of learning that swept through Europe in the 13th and 14th centuries left behind more than weighty volumes. Architecture that truly inspires, streets hot with heretical thoughts. All this still exists today in Salamanca, particularly at night, when the Spanish come out to play, and the lights enliven the architecture that needs no enlivening, and the warmth encourages this cauldron of activity. Truly a beautiful city that you to should visit or to which you could send your student offspring on an Erasmus year.

Saturday seems to be wedding day at the stunning cathedral, and couples literally line up for their turn. We found ourselves in the midst of all this colour, elegantly dressed wedding parties, confetti cannons going off, brides in Ferraris.

Onwards to have some tapas at a very good modern wine bar, Vinodiario where we were introduced to a prosciutto-style ham made from goat, called cecina, which comes from nearby Leon and is astonishingly good. There was also a dish of salt cod with a conserve of peppers and olives, an Iberian hot dog, a nice traditional sausage, with a red fruit ketchup and excellent wine by the glass.

We stayed at the Melia las Claras Hotel, opposite our wine bar, but would probably have preferred the NH Hotel by the cathedral.

 

Vinodiario

Plaza Basilios no.1

Tel.: ++34/923 614 0438 

Only 56 kilometres from Bordeaux: oysters, sail-boats, gentle waters, golden sand, fragrant pine forests. No wonder the Bordelais love the bay of Arcachon, and particularly Cap Ferret. This haven of childhood dreams comforts like hot chocolate, which by the way can be found at Frédélion, Avenue de la Plage, where you can sit, dunk your croissant and watch the world cycle by.

 

 

 

Markets are an integral part of French life; and how we love them! They are the best place to buy fresh local produce and, just as importantly, a place to meet, to chat with stall-holders and catch up with all the week's gossip. It matters that the lettuce we can buy from a local small-holder was picked that morning, wasn't grown without earth under a plastic cloche and then dipped into a chemical bath; that the chicken or guinea fowl has been raised outside and fed naturally, and actually tastes of something. We agree with Hugh Fernley-Whittingstall: it is worth paying more and eating chicken less often, which is what the French do. Everyone has their favourite stall holder, but we have learnt to avoid the larger stalls, who buy in the produce from wholesalers selling produce from all over Europe, as well as the cheese stalls with large rounds who induce you to taste, and then sell you cheese for 40 Euros a kilo ( twice the farm price). Better to look up the local goat farmer and take home that little Cabecou if you're in the South West, Ste-Maure in the Loire , or Broussin from the Var, all the regional delights of France.

 

Cahors is famous for its rich dark red wine, first brought by the Romans, and made mainly from the Malbec grape. Like the wine, Cahors is a full-bodied Southern French town, the narrow streets protecting its inhabitants from the searing summer heat. Nowadays it's a place to relax over a coffee, a leisurely lunch, or to explore the market. When it's not market day there are still Les Halles which house some good vegetable stalls and traiteurs. The centre also has a good selection of individual shops; we particularly enjoyed the hat shop opposite the Halles.

The architecture deserves more than a scant look, as Cahors was an important trading centre during the 14th and 15th centuries, it has left us a wealth to enjoy: the cathedral, Saint Barthélémy church, and maison Henry IV, to mention a few. A little way from the centre and not to be missed is the 14th century pont Valentre which is still walked over by pilgrims on their way to Santiago today.

This is a place that dreams are made of.

The French escape the crowded coasts, the dusty cities, to places where their hearts lie. The Aveyron is one of those places, where life goes on as it did before at an unhurried pace. Not a fast food in sight. Behind the door pictured below, you just know that you are going to be fed as you should be fed.............always.

 

This small village on the Lot is dominated by the Château Estaing, that we notice from the press, has been bought by the former French president Giscard d'Estaing so he can properly assume the family name.

The village itself, built between the 15th and 16th centuries, is a stopping point for the pilgrims on their way to Santiago from Le Puy. The photo below is of the hostel where the pilgrims can stay. These are found at regular distances on the pilgrimage routes.

The church of St. Fleuret houses the relics of the saint of the same name, as well as some grand altarpieces. The churches on these pilgrims' routes often contain large artworks, or relics, or both, potent symbols of the power of the church.

It's not always easy to find very nice hotels in the rural backwaters of France. We consulted the Michelin guide and opted for L'Auberge St. Fleuret, a family-run place with a decent restaurant, a pool in the garden, but somewhat dated and small rooms with tiny 1.40m beds and a noisy bar opposite. Best to ask for the rooms to the back of the hotel.

Just inland from the Mediterranean coast of Narbonne, lies the rugged wind-swept Corbières, which is worth a little detour. We started our tour with Frontfroide, a magnificent abbey founded in 1093 and a highpoint of cistercian architecture; it is from here that the Cathars were persecuted. After admiring this austere abbey we took the road to Lagrasse which took us through the heart of the Corbières. This rugged countryside used to produce country wines of little note, but the wines from this region have improved by leaps and bounds over the past decade, so after visiting the abbey, what better way to sup in the flavour of the countryside than to try a couple of tastings. Just off the road between Frontfroide  and Lagrasse is Château Beauregard, where the eighth generation of vignerons, Nicolas Mirouze, is blending Syrah and Grenache to produce a wine of excellent price/quality relationship, for only 6 Euros. 

Lagrasse is a wonderful little village perched on the river valley overlooking its abbey. Inside the village there is another church which has a couple of wonderful medieval stained glass windows and copious amounts of paintings and sculptures. The 15th century square with its covered market place is one of the most authentic we have seen; unrestored it has retained its patina of transactions from the past, whilst playing host to potters, a metal workshop and other artisans in the present. The village has a slightly alternative feel to it, having attracted many young arty types. One gets the sense of a vibrant community. Unfortuantly the abbey was closed when we visited as it is only open at weekends off- season.

Staying in Villeneuve lès Avignon at the Hotel de L'Atelier we were reminded of what this unique land has to offer. The Papal occupancy of Avignon during the 14th century has left its mark on the entire area, leaving it with a rich architectural and cultural heritage. The village of Villeneuve lès Avignon for instance was used by the cardinals during this period, and as well as the grand properties left by them, it has the perfect Provençal square. This village is a great base for exploring the surrounding area, places such as L'Isle sur la Sorgue, famous for its antique shops, Arles, the Carmargue, the Alpilles, and Avignon where it is impossible to park inside the city walls.

The thing that really struck us though was the "Esprit de Provence", a beguiling mix of sound and smells that comes from the first southern landscape in Europe; it infuses itself in the relaxedness of the people, the lightness of the food, but first and foremost the light! Lauded by many, this unique light gives a clarity that is difficult to find anywhere else. 

While the French writer Boris Vians's assertion: "If there had not been any cafés, there would have been no Jean-Paul Sartre" takes the power of caffeine somewhat seriously, there is no doubt that French cafés have helped fuel intellectual and cultural life in France.

One of our favourite artists' haunts, though more a bar than a café, is the Hotel Le Templier in Collioure near Perpignan. It has retained a tangible sense of history in its walls, whilst art given in lieu of meals and drink by impoverished artists decades ago, adorns every inch of those walls. Great fun to spot the famous artist! Yet it hasn't sold out and traded on its past; it remains a living part of the village. Go inside, for that is the place to be, savour a local wine and watch the locals play cards and banter in Catalan, around probably the same tables that Picasso played on. Magic!

 

Wherever there is a car (usually rather battered) stationary at the side of the road, it's usually there for one of two reasons. If there is no one in sight then you can be sure that somewhere there is a Frenchman or woman foraging. Where the car is parked will vary with the time of year. It will be near a forest in the autumn, where the owner is quietly poking the undergrowth looking for mushrooms. We were given a tip for hunting mushrooms by an expert some time ago, and that is one must walk in circles as one hunts; the refraction of the light from different angles reveals the hidden mushrooms.

Spring will find the car near a ditch or hedge, the owner occupied with finding snails, wild garlic, and wild asparagus; it seems though that elderflowers go untouched, which is a surprise as they make wonderful fritters as well as cordial, something we're passing onto our French neighbours.

We have continued to be amazed at the ability of French country folk to find something consumable in the most unlikely locations.

Last week we went from arty Céret near Perpignan through the Pyrenees into Spain on a tiny mountain pass that was actually sign-posted as "interdit", but we ignored that and crossed on the mud track in 15 minutes. The road from Céret winds up the hill, affording stunning views of the Pic du Canigou and the plain to Perpignan. It's about 14km to Las Illas through idylic and isolated countryside, but to cross from there into Spain, one has to retrace ones step and go by a complicated road; hence the need for the shortcut. On the Spanish side the road is large and well made up and everything is suddenly quite different. Food and drink at the large border restaurant is much cheaper than in France; the smells, the flavours, the little coffees served in glasses, the sound of Catalan being spoken, made us feel as though we had travelled much farther.

After this little excursion we passed back into France via the village of St. Laurent de Cerdans where the now famous Toile du Soleil company weaves its Catalan fabrics in an artisan workshop. They have an outlet shop which is well worth a visit. (We already work with their sister company, Quinta who make our Catalan furniture.) There are also two companies in the village making traditional espadrilles. We sat in the sun outside Laurence's little pizza take-away which was pretty good too.

Recently travelling to Italy we found ourselves in the Haute Provence, a region loved by the Marseillais, as it is only a couple of hours, and yet a world away. The heat and dust make way for cool air and crisp vistas.

Life here has a rhythm that takes into account not only the seasons, but also the whims and fancies of cows, cosseted to produce some of the best cheeses in the world. It also seems to be a good place for apple-growing; there are orchards everywhere.

Visit Sisteron, Gap and the numerous intimate chapels in every village

Prosecco in the evening, if we are not careful we could be seduced by this, in fact maybe we should allow ourselves. The top of the bar was full of tempting snacks, courgette fritata, olives, fried bread balls and the like, free if you ordered a glass of something; how could we resist? The prosecco bubbled out of the shallow champagne cups; we felt so refined and somehow almost Milanese, enjoying the banter. We went back for more the next evening and were greeted like old friends.

A birthday cake had been ordered and it was being collected, but before being put in its box it was displayed and everyone let out oooohs and aahs. The house also specializes in the best soft amaretti biscuits. Anyway, if you happen to find yourself in Milan and wish for a prosecco and a nibble, we can heartily recommend Pasticceria Moriondo.

Bar Pasticceria Gelateria

Moriondo

Via Marghera 10

Milano (closest Metro station: Wagner)

Tel.: 02/48005643

In 2004 Orlando Murrin, then editor of BBC Good Food, and his partner left London to set up a highly successful ‘boutique b&b’ in SW France. Orlando is also the author of cook book : A Table in the Tarn". Here he describes why this is the last year he will be making cherry eau de vie.

I can clearly remember the evening eight years ago when we first set eyes on the Manoir de Raynaudes. It was dusk and it was drizzling. We drove around a lake and up a rough avenue towards a once-elegant house with a pointy slate roof. In front of it lay a few neglected rows of spindly looking trees. It was December and the branches were bare, but something told me this had once been a cherry orchard.

Two months later the house was ours, and one of the first things I did was to knock on the door of the local farmer and beg for some manure. That winter, and every winter since, I have found a huge pile waiting for me at the edge of the orchard, which I have lovingly distributed round the base of the trees. Thus nourished, the trees have grown back lush and thick.

Anyone who has grown tree fruits knows the trees have a mind of their own. However carefully you prune them, they seem to have one year on, a year or two off. During our tenure here, our trees have fruited copiously in 2004, then again in 2006. That year the trees were so dripping with cherries that I asked the farmer what to do with them. Go see Cazottes, he said – a family distillery in Villeneuve-sur-Vère. a few villages away. And so we made our first cherry eau de vie.

Making eau de vie – specially from cherries - is an exhausting process, and it was with equal delight and horror that I saw signs in early spring that this year it was once again going to be raining cherries. The process is this. First of all, spread sheets on the grass below the cherry tree. Set up a ladder and snip or tug off as many cherries as you can reach, letting them drop onto the sheets. Climb down, reposition ladder and repeat. The best cherries always seem to be just out of reach, so you can use telescopic shears. Slow work - it takes a couple of hours to pick a whole tree, then round up all the cherries. Fortunately our trees fruit in sequence, so the work is staggered over a month.

Once you have a bucket of cherries, they need to be crushed into a large lidded black barrel kept for the purpose. Even this is not as easy as it sounds, because every cherry needs to have its tail pulled off first. (It seems the tails make the eau de vie bitter, though thankfully you don’t have to remove the stones). We have very obliging guests at the Manoir and they do their best to help. In 2006, the Welch family from the Lake District happened to be staying, and together they dewhiskered and squished virtually the whole crop. This year’s champions were Nick and Lisa. It is messy, slow work and if the sun is out, best done in a bikini.

The barrel takes a momentous 100 kilos of cherries. When full to the brim, you wait a few days for the fizzing to stop and clap on the lid. In September, we somehow hoik the barrel into the boot of the car and head for the distillery.

It is no myth that the French love paperwork. When I hand over the barrel I have to present an attestation from our mayor to confirm that we have cherry trees, the fruits of which we wish to have distilled. Last week I returned to pick up the eau de vie, which involved filling out three forms and making out cheques to both the distiller and the French government (for tax). And oh yes, Cazottes gave me a certificate bearing my car registration number, in case I was stopped on the way home for bootlegging.

Is it all worth it? What do you think? 18 litres of our very own, pure, shimmering 40% eau de vie de cerises, made from thousands of cherries ripened in the clean, bright Tarn sunshine and massaged by our (and our guests’) hands. Sipped icy cold after dinner, it is the month of May in a glass.

Before you ask, we cannot sell you a bottle because we don’t have the right sort of licence. Even more sadly, we will not be making cherry eau de vie again, because we have just signed a compromis de vente, meaning the Manoir de Raynaudes has been sold to new owners. Then again, if you happen to know of a property for sale with an orchard of those luscious little mirabelle plums…

The picture of the lorry below reminded me of iconic images of France "68", "BB", St. Tropez, the 2CV, all belonging to another age.

An age where there were differences in our cultures, the colourful markets, the heat, the mountains, the cheeses, the food, and two hour lunches. While the French remain wonderfully idiosyncratic, the differences seem to be merging. Now all vans look the same, and have names like Pinto. Even food is not sacrosanct, with creeping European-ism on the menu to "please the tourists", and God forbid, ready meals in the supermarkets.

Sometimes I think it should be back to the future.

Vive la Difference!

The Abbey St. Foy, so named because the relics of St. Foy came to rest there, dominates the village. Though restored in the 19th century it still has a wealth of Romanesque features. Next to the abbey is now a museum, where the shrine of St Foy is now kept, it is the only medieval shrine left on the route to Santiago. Also within the museum are gold relics from Charlemagne, and a 9th Century chest from King Pepin.

The village itself is wonderfully contained in a shell (conch) like position in the hillside overlooking the river Doude. The house and streets have been well restored, and with no modern additions, one can sense what it must have been like hundreds of years ago. It is one of the jewels of South West France for sure, and as such receives a lot of visitors, so probably best seen off season.

France is such a vast country that it seems to offer infinite variety, in its countryside, towns, villages and regions. I suppose therefore that I should not be surprised by another little gem that we had not previously discovered, but Provins, just 80 km from Paris, certainly was a surprise.

The lower village with its array of small shops is certainly worth strolling around, allowing one to absorb the atmosphere of old France whilst indulging in cake and coffee. Provins is rightly famous for its medieval ramparts, and the upper town. It prospered in the 12th century as one of the trading towns set up by the Counts of Champagne. We are lucky that many of the medieval fortifications still remain, as well as an intact centre, mostly dating from the 17th century.

The real surprise for us was to discover that Provins is famous for its products made from roses, such as rose jam and candy, though it was the rose mustard that we enjoyed with our steak frites that really did it for us. Quite unexpectedly delicious!

One of the things that strikes us time and again driving through France, is that provincial villages often appear deserted, the façades all shuttered, and we have often wondered where all the people have gone. We were particularly struck recently by this in the area around Bray sur Seine where the villages have not been restored as they would have been in the South or Burgundy. We were transported back to the 1940s by the street scene as if wandering through a film set. The unrestored façades in this area are fantastic archives of bygone advertising, and vignettes of a lost world, an old France that lives in our collective black and white imagination.

Following the river Cure towards Vézelay   feels like being in the French version of the Cotswolds. The gentle countryside is interspersed with small, well maintained villages and lovely manor houses, except of course here there are the vines, which give us the delicious Chardonnay of this region.

Vézelay rises majestically, the village clustering around the monastery, where the remains of Mary Magdalene reputedly lie, the original reason for its fame. The monastery is one of the great buildings of the middle ages, sublime in its simplicity, superb in its execution, a true work of art. It was from here that the third crusade started, and it is one of the starting points for the pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela, the St Jacques shell on the façade reminding us of this.

 

Small roads through the mountains have long held a fascination for us; the idea that somewhere not far is a retreat, an old church, or a farm selling chevre.

Passing under the motorway on just such a tiny road, we were soon away from the roar of the traffic and deep into the Pyrenees, where we found ourselves in a hobbit land of cork trees, the recent rains making it far more verdant than usual. Some of the trees here are are still being harvested for what must be a relic of a once thriving industry that provided the cork for the now deserted bouchon factory in Le Bolou at the foothills. 

All of the Continent goes on holiday for August, time to put the feet up, and replenish the energies. Back soon

Metz in the Lorraine, has unfairly been overlooked in our travels so far. As we were passing nearby, we booked the Hotel de la Cathedrale, a recommendation from the Guardian. Each room is decorated delightfully with antiques and brocante, just the kind of thing for us; altogether a great little hotel for 75 Euros a night.

Metz has a surprisingly well preserved centre, given its position and military history. The limestone used in the buildings create a light and spacious feel, whilst the layers of history reveal themselves, in buildings representing Gothic, Renaissance, Enlightenment, and not forgetting the modern Pompidou centre.

We enjoyed a very pleasant evening strolling through the centre, before indulging in the hearty local cuisine and a red Burgundy. If you find yourself near Metz en route to somewhere else, it's definitely worth a detour.

Illustrations by Alice Ray

Tired after leaving Metz later than planned, we found a room on the Rhone in Vienne, just south of Lyon. We needed to stretch our legs after the drive, so we explored the typical narrow streets with their wonderful doorways and shutters. Rounding a corner we found ourselves in a square with a Roman temple standing there intact. What a shock; a Roman temple on the Rhone! it's worth visiting just for that.

Later we ate in the L'Estancot (4 rue de la Table Ronde 04 74 85 12 09). We couldn't resist eating in a restaurant in a street with that name. The restaurant is run by an energetic couple who serve really good local food, including the Lyonnaise "criques", a kind of potato galette. It is worth booking as this place very popular with locals.

 

Here's a delightful recipe to try while fresh peas are in season. These pancakes are the perfect Sunday brunch dish. The batter can be prepared a few hours in advance.

 

80 g freshly shelled peas (from around 40g podded peas), 200g flour, 2 eggs, 150ml milk, freshly ground black pepper, 30g butter, 1 tbsp. olive oil, 1 tsp. lemon juice, Sea salt.

To serve: 4 slices of smoked salmon, whipping cream (cold), a couple of sprigs of mint

Pod the peas and select some of the most tender and prettiest pods. Clean them well, remove the stringy parts and cut them into fine julienne strips. Pour over the lemon juice and olive oil, salt and pepper. Reserve.

Cook the peas in salted boiling water for 2 minutes, drain and place in a blender with 3 tablespoons of water. Blend to a smooth purée.

Combine the flour and the eggs, then add the milk and whisk to obtain a lump-free consistency. Add the pea purée and mix in well. Add salt and pepper to taste.

Heat a nob of butter in a small pan and pour in a ladle of the batter. Cook the pancake for 3 minutes on each side, keeping them warm while using up the batter.

Whip the cream with a pinch of salt and add the chopped mint.

Serve each pancake with a slice of salmon, a dollop of the cream and the pod salad on top.

Enjoy with a glass of chilled white wine! 

Illustrations by Alice Ray

Here's a lovely pud for Sunday lunch:

 

For 8 small ramekins dishes. Preparation 20mn, cooking time: 25mn

3 eggs, 150ml whipping cream, 60g ground almonds, 30g flour, 120g sugar, 150g strawberries, 150g rhubarb.

 

Pre-heat the oven to 180ºC. Wash rhubarb and cut into cubes (not too tiny as you don't want puree), place in saucepan with a tiny bit of water to prevent sticking, cover and cook for about 5mn; drain. Briefly wash strawberries and cut into small pieces. Break the eggs into a bowl and add the cream. Whisk adding the flour, sugar and almond powder. Pour mixture into ramekins filling them barely over half full and divide the fruit pieces on top. Bake for 20-25mn; they will rise  quite a bit. The gratins can be enjoyed warm or cold. 

Illustrations by Alice Ray

This is an easy yet delicious chicken terrine is perfect for outdoor summer lunches and brunches. It can be prepared in advance.

600 g chicken breast fillets, 100ml Port wine or Armagnac, 200g minced veal and 200g pork mince, 200g minced chicken , 70g thin lardons  (if too thick cut in half to get matchstick lardons), 3 eggs, pink peppercorns, freshly ground pepper, salt, 1/2 bunch of chives and 1/2 bunch of flat parsley, 30g pistachios. 2 Fresh bay leaves

 

The night before cut the chicken fillets into long strips and marinate in the alcohol in the fridge. Take of your rings and get stuck into mixing the three minced meats thoroughly by hand. Add the chicken strips and the lardons, mix again adding the eggs. Season generously with pepper and pink peppercorns and Maldon salt. (At this stage you can fry a small amount of the mixture to check the seasoning). Add the finely snipped chives and the chopped parsley as well as the pistachios.

Put the mixture into a terrine dish with a lid taking around 1.5kg, smooth over the surface with a fork and put two fresh bay leaves on top for decoration. Put the lid on, place the dish into a bain-marie (water bath) and put in a fan assisted oven pre-heated to 250ºC. After half an hour reduce heat to 180ºC and continue cooking for 1 hour.

Serve this terrine cold, ideally with home made chutney, a little green salad and a good slice of country bread and a lovely glass of something chilled.

 Illustrations by Alice Ray

This is a savoury version of the classic Tarte Tatin, so it's cooked upside down. Using ready-made pastry it's quick to do and is bound to go down well on a summer buffet or picnic.

1 round of puff pastry around 250g ready-made, ideally with butter not hydrogenated fats, 5 courgettes, 400g fresh soft goat's cheese, such as Petit Billy, 2 shallots, 1 clove garlic, 9 tbsp. olive oil, 1 tsp. ground cumin, 1 tsp. Herbes de Provence, salt, pepper.

Peel and finely chop the shallots. Peel and crush garlic. Wash the courgettes and with a peeler peel of the skin only every few centimetres (roughly 3 strips of skin removed and 3 left on). Cut them into cubes. In a pan heat the oil over medium heat and saute the courgettes with the garlic for about 8 minutes. Scatter the Herbes de Provence over them and set aside.

In a bowl mix the cheese, shallots, cumin and 2 tbsp. of the olive oil with salt and pepper to a smooth paste. Oil a mould suitable for Tarte Tatin (mustn't leak) with the rest of the oil, put the courgettes on the bottom of the tin and spread the cheese mixture evenly over them. Cover with the pastry, pushing it down the sides with your fingers. Bake for roughly 20 minutes at 210ºC. Unmould upside down straight out of the oven and serve immediately.

Illustrations by Alice Ray

These brussels are good with roast pork or pork chops.

Wash and prepare 600g of brussels sprouts by cutting a cross into their base. Melt 30g of butter in a sauté pan and add two teaspoons of sugar and cook for 2 minutes. Add a sliced onion and cook for a further 3 minutes. Add the sprouts and cook for a short while before adding 20cl of beer, season with salt and pepper; cover the pan, turn down the heat and cook for 15 minutes.

Illustrations by Alice Ray

 

We have some wonderful vintage cake tins from the North of France in our shop for Christmas. They are in the shape of a gingerbread house and this recipe would work well, although it is meant for a loaf tin. This recipe makes a lovely moist cake which improves after a few days and is served sliced.

First make your own gingerbread spice from: 25g ground cinnamon, 5g ground ginger, 7g cardomon pods and 7 g cloves (the latter ground together in a spice mill or coffe grinder). Sift and keep in an airtight container. The mix is more than you need for this recipe.

For the gingerbread you will need: 200g orange marmelade, 90g milk, 1 level tsp. salt, 2-3 whole star anise, 2 tbsp. ground cinnamon, 80g soft butter, 1 good tbsp. of the spice mix, 175g flour, 25g cornflour, 2 eggs, 1 sachet of baking powder (2 tsp.), 275g acacia honey. 1 untreated orange.

Boil the milk with the star anise and let it infuse for 10 mins. and cool. Warm the honey, whizz the orange marmelade in a food processor and reserve a tablepoon of it for decorating the cake later. Cream the butter, add the flour, cornflour, eggs, cinnamon and the spice mix. Add the honey and marmelade and mix well. Reserve a tablespoonful of the cake mix for later. Pour the mix into a loaf tin and bake for 1 hour at 170C. Meanwhile cut the orange into 5mm slices and cook for 3 mins. in boiling water, drain and reserve. After testing with a skewer take out the cake and spread the reserved dough on top and arrange the orange slices on it. Bake for a further 5 mins., then glaze with warm orange marmelade.

Joyeux Noel!

With the unexpected cold snap we'll all want to go back to warming and sustaining winter food. This zesty dish does the trick without being dull.

4 lamb shanks, 2 large onions, 4 untreated oranges, preferably organic, 1 lemon, 1 bunch coriander, 60g slithered almonds, 2 cloves garlic, 1 tsp. ground cinnamon, 1 tsp. ground cumin, a pinch of saffron threads, 60g golden raisins, 1 tbsp. caster sugar, 2 tbsp. olive oil, salt and pepper.

Mix the juice of the lemon with a tablespoon of sea salt and rub it all over the lamb shanks. Set aside for 15 minutes, then rinse off the mix and pat dry. Rinse and dry one of the oranges and finely zest the skin. Peel the onions and grate them coarsely. Mix the zest, onion, cinnamon, cumin, sugar and the oil and cover the shanks with this mixture all around. Set aside to marinate for 30 minutes.

Meanwhile lightly toast the almonds in a dry frying pan. Set aside.

Brown the lamb shanks gently for 12-15 minutes in a casserole dish or a tagine with the flattened, unpeeled garlic (crush lightly with the back of a knife). Pour over the juice of the 4 oranges and add half the coriander tied together with cooking string as a bouquet. Cover and simmer for 1h30 turning the meat regularly. Remove the garlic and coriander and add the saffron and the dry raisins to the cooking liquid and cook for a further 30 minutes.

Serve hot with the toasted almonds and remaining chopped coriander scattered over the top.